Doll

Autumn / Winter 2016

London based fashion designer Shao Yen's fascination with the lines and curves that make up the human form with Doll, a collection for autumn/winter 2016 heavily inspired by the work of surrealist sculptor and photographer Hans Bellmer.

Circular panels of fabric, rounded shoulders and curving necklines alter the silhouette, creating new and unexpected lines on the body in a way that echoes Bellmer's doll sculptures, on which joints are bulbous and sections of flesh are exaggerated and manipulated.

Similarly, he continues to pursue his interest in working with contrasts in fabric and texture, adding traditional Chinese silks to a mix of wool and cotton, and aims to replicate the multiple curving lines of Bellmer's erotic sketches through the use of crimped net, sports fabric and knitwear.

Quilted pieces feature curving embroidered lines. A dress, cardigan and a skirt are pieced together with pleated panels, layered in such a way as to cascade down the body. Crimped off-white fabric is drawn together in a line down the torso, creating a sinuous linear quality that is highly tuned to the physical form.

A line of delicate jewellery accompanies the ready-to-wear collection, featuring whimsically pretty pieces of pearls and feathers. Sensuous, feminine and light, earrings, necklaces and brooches echo the mood for autumn/winter 2016.